Repeat breakouts can seem like a mystery. In the search for answers, Western derms— armed with their prescription pads—are increasingly taking a holistic approach. "We're reading the skin for clues about what's going on inside the body," explains Ellen Marmur, MD, founder of Marmur Medical and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in NYC. This new age view is actually really old: Traditional Chinese medicine has been using the face as a diagnostic tool for centuries. "It's a science of observation, where parts of the face correspond to different internal organs, similar to foot reflexology," explains Lillian Pearl Bridges, author of Face Reading in Chinese Medicine. Our zone-focused guide reveals the internal and external reasons behind your breakouts.
Forehead and hairline
Inner trigger. This area connects to the digestive system, and breakouts here could
suggest you're eating like a teenage boy. "Studies have found that milk products, processed
foods, sugar, and carbs make acne worse," says Dr. Marmur.
foods, sugar, and carbs make acne worse," says Dr. Marmur.
How to deal.
"Keep a food diary, and if you notice that you've been eating a lot of dairy or junk
food, cut it out for a week and see if your blemishes improve," says Bridges.
"Keep a food diary, and if you notice that you've been eating a lot of dairy or junk
food, cut it out for a week and see if your blemishes improve," says Bridges.
Outer behaviour. "Hair that rests on your skin is a prime pimple-maker because the silicones
and oils in hair products clog the pores," says Cybele Fishman, MD, integrative dermatologist
and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.
and oils in hair products clog the pores," says Cybele Fishman, MD, integrative dermatologist
and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City.
How to deal. Each morning, give skin a fresh start with an antiacne cleanser (like Glytone's),
and keep blotting papers on hand for midday greasies. At night, use a cleansing wipe with
salicylic acid to decongest pores (try Dr. Lin's), and pin back bangs if you have them.
and keep blotting papers on hand for midday greasies. At night, use a cleansing wipe with
salicylic acid to decongest pores (try Dr. Lin's), and pin back bangs if you have them.
Around the eyebrows
Inner trigger. These breakouts link to the liver and kidneys. "Drinking alcohol often and
eating processed foods regularly can cause inflammation in the body that often shows up
on the skin here," says Dr. Marmur.
eating processed foods regularly can cause inflammation in the body that often shows up
on the skin here," says Dr. Marmur.
How to deal. Time to detox, party girl. "Daily green juices with kale, spinach, and cucumber
help detoxify the liver and rehydrate the body, and drinking water with lemon flushes out
impurities to clear the skin," says Bridges.
help detoxify the liver and rehydrate the body, and drinking water with lemon flushes out
impurities to clear the skin," says Bridges.
Outer behavior. Do you break out after getting your brows waxed, threaded, or tweezed?
Ripping out those hairs can cause inflammatory acne.
Ripping out those hairs can cause inflammatory acne.
How to deal. Use honey as a skin-calming spot treatment. "Raw manuka honey is
naturally anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, and since it's a humectant, it's not drying,"
explains Dr. Fishman. Sounds weird, but it works. Leave it on for 15 minutes, then rinse.
naturally anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, and since it's a humectant, it's not drying,"
explains Dr. Fishman. Sounds weird, but it works. Leave it on for 15 minutes, then rinse.
Cheeks
Inner trigger. This area relates to the lungs, so pimples here could be due to pollution or
smoking. "Both increase oxidative stress, which exacerbates acne," says Dr. Fishman.
smoking. "Both increase oxidative stress, which exacerbates acne," says Dr. Fishman.
How to deal. Antioxidants help counteract the harmful free radicals that stir up inflammation,
and a recent study showed that topical and oral antioxidants might actually help prevent
breakouts. Apply an antioxidant serum every day (Juice Beauty's has potent green and
white teas), and try a zinc supplement—it's been shown to calm inflammation in the skin.
and a recent study showed that topical and oral antioxidants might actually help prevent
breakouts. Apply an antioxidant serum every day (Juice Beauty's has potent green and
white teas), and try a zinc supplement—it's been shown to calm inflammation in the skin.
Outer behaviour. Your makeup or skin care may be the prob. "Silicone and oil, even
good-for-you ones like coconut, can plug pores," says Dr. Fishman. Another suspect: your
bacteria-laden cell phone.
good-for-you ones like coconut, can plug pores," says Dr. Fishman. Another suspect: your
bacteria-laden cell phone.
How to deal. Keep pores clear with oil-free, noncomedogenic products, never sleep in your
makeup, and wipe that iPhone clean (or at least use earbuds).
makeup, and wipe that iPhone clean (or at least use earbuds).
Jawline and chin
Inner trigger. According to both Eastern and Western medicine, pimples here indicate
out-of-whack hormones. "Premenstrual fluctuations in estrogen and testosterone activate
acne eruptions," says Dr. Marmur.
out-of-whack hormones. "Premenstrual fluctuations in estrogen and testosterone activate
acne eruptions," says Dr. Marmur.
How to deal. Talk to your MD about going on birth-control pills, which help regulate
hormone levels. In lieu of this, Dr. Fishman often prescribes Spironolactone, a pill that blocks
testosterone's effect on oil production.
hormone levels. In lieu of this, Dr. Fishman often prescribes Spironolactone, a pill that blocks
testosterone's effect on oil production.
Outer behaviour. Do you always rest your chin in your hands? That bacteria transfers right
onto your face. "And if you tend to pick at your skin, this inflames the area and makes
pimples worse," says Dr. Marmur.
onto your face. "And if you tend to pick at your skin, this inflames the area and makes
pimples worse," says Dr. Marmur.
How to deal. Hands off! Put reminder Post-its on your computer or bathroom mirror if you
have to. Another way to preempt spots: A week before your period, use a mild exfoliating
cleanser (like Neutrogena) every other night. As for those existing zits? Dab on a salicylic
-acid spot treatment (try Clean & Clear)—it roots out oil.
have to. Another way to preempt spots: A week before your period, use a mild exfoliating
cleanser (like Neutrogena) every other night. As for those existing zits? Dab on a salicylic
-acid spot treatment (try Clean & Clear)—it roots out oil.
Nose
Inner trigger. In traditional Chinese medicine, the center of the face is associated with the
heart. Any redness and blemishes here may be stress-related, says Dr. Marmur.
heart. Any redness and blemishes here may be stress-related, says Dr. Marmur.
How to deal. Try stress-relievers like deep breathing, meditation, and yoga. And make sure
to get enough rest and exercise to reduce excess cortisol and calm your skin.
to get enough rest and exercise to reduce excess cortisol and calm your skin.
Outer behaviour. "Since there are a lot of oil glands on the nose, it's prime territory for
acne," says Dr. Fishman.
acne," says Dr. Fishman.
How to deal. Salicylic-acid products are great for keeping grease at bay, but Dr. Fishman
also recommends sulfur to cut oil and inflammation. Apply a sulfer mask twice weekly to
keep your T-zone clear.
also recommends sulfur to cut oil and inflammation. Apply a sulfer mask twice weekly to
keep your T-zone clear.
Article and Photo Credit: cosmopolitan.com
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